This season was no exception to London’s global reputation as an epicentre for young talent. JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, and Erdem all had appropriately spectacular presentations for their collections, but all eyes were on Daniel Lee’s second show for Burberry.
The festivities began with what may become a new tradition: Britain’s equivalent to the Met Gala, hosted by Anna Wintour in support of London’s performing arts venues. The dazzling red carpet at Vogue World added star power to the fashion week, with guests ranging from Sienna Miller (who displayed her baby bump in Schiaparelli couture) and Jodie Turner-Smith to Princess Eugenie and Kate Winslet.
Here are some trends that ruled the London Fashion Week
Sculptural apparel
Some designers took the term ‘wearable art’ to its ultimate limit, delivering a series of creative runway pieces that were more sculptural than sartorial.
From HARRI, who designed the attention-grabbing inflatable costume that musician Sam Smith wore to the Brit Awards in February, to JW Anderson, designers redefined the concept of wearable art.
Also read | New York Fashion Week: Highlights from the Spring-Summer 2024 runways
Exquisite footwear
This season, footwear ruled supreme. Simone Rocha’s surprise collaboration with Crocs was presented on the runway on Sunday, recreating the disputed rubber shoe with a platform heel studded with the Irish designer’s characteristic pearls and crystal Jibbitz.
HARRI introduced the toe shoe to the runway, outfitting models in Vibram’s notorious FiveFinger hiking shoes, while Molly Goddard marched her models down the ramp in knee-high lace-up boots that resembled professional wrestling gear.
Hoods
Hoods were everywhere at London Fashion Week this September, whether as standalone items, connected to outfits, or on classic sweatshirts. These looks were seen underneath leather biker jackets at Knwls, crocheted and lace hoods at Susan Fang, and knitted hoods at Chopova Lowena.
’20s-inspired party dresses
Richard Quinn produced an ivory-ruffled tiny dress that appeared more like a Rococo ball gown coat from the 1700s, and models seemed like they were marching through the 20th century at the finale of ultra-feminine British designer Molly Goddard.
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